摘要:To immerse yourself in the culture, cuisine and political radicalism that California is famous for, there’s no better pl...
To immerse yourself in the culture, cuisine and political radicalism that California is famous for, there’s no better place to start than the distinct neighbourhoods of San Francisco为了让自己沉浸在加州闻名的文化、美食和政治激进主义中,没有比旧金山独特的社区更好的地方入门了
San Francisco has long been a creative incubator and cultural melting pot – a catalyst for social change, technological innovation and good times. It’s also a must-visit for anyone considering a Californian road trip, or indeed any great American road trip – after all, it was repeatedly visited by Sal Paradise in Jack Kerouac’s seminal On the Road.旧金山长期以来一直是创意孵化器和文化大熔炉——社会变革、技术创新和美好时代的催化剂。对于任何考虑加州公路旅行或任何伟大的美国公路旅行的人来说,这也是必游之地——毕竟,萨尔天堂在杰克凯鲁亚克的开创性作品《在路上》中多次拜访过它。
1 City Lights bookstore城市之光书店
Head to the North Beach neighbourhood to check out City Lights bookstore and neighbouring Vesuvio Cafe. The area has been a hub of bohemian and artistic creativity since the beat writers made it their home in the 1950s. Poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti founded City Lights in 1953 as a literary meeting-place, paperback bookstore and publishing house.前往北海滩附近,看看城市之光书店和邻近的 Vesuvio 咖啡馆。自 1950 年代节拍作家将这里作为家园以来,该地区一直是波西米亚风格和艺术创意的中心。诗人 Lawrence Ferlinghetti 于 1953 年创立了城市之光,来作为文学聚会、平装书店和出版社的场所。
2 Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory金门幸运饼干厂
First-time visitors arrive in San Francisco knowing about the bridge and the bay, but they leave knowing the city as a cluster of communities, each neighbourhood with its own distinct flavour and heritage. San Francisco’s Chinatown is the largest Chinatown outside Asia, and the oldest Chinatown in North America. And since 1962, the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory has been making custom cookies by hand, and offering visitors tours of the factory; today they hand-bake 10,000 fortune cookies a day, on a cast iron rotating griddle wheel.
第一次到达旧金山的游客知道这座桥和海湾,但他们离开时知道这座城市是一个社区集群,每个社区都有自己独特的风味和遗产。旧金山的唐人街是亚洲以外最大的唐人街,也是北美最古老的唐人街。自1962年以来,金门幸运饼干厂一直在手工制作定制饼干,并为参观者提供工厂参观服务;今天,他们每天在铸铁旋转烤盘上手工烘烤 10,000 个幸运饼干。
3 The GLBT Historical Society Museum and Archives社会历史博物馆(GLBT)
Friendly, fabulous and full of historical clout, the Castro District is one of the liveliest neighbourhoods in San Francisco, a welcoming gay neighbourhood where indie galleries, high-energy gay bars and top-notch organic restaurants line the streets. It’s impossible to really understand San Francisco’s progressive spirit without visiting this progressive yet party-loving neighbourhood, where rainbow flags fly proudly, spontaneous street celebrations regularly erupt outside iconic gay bars such as the Twin Peaks Tavern, and the GLBT Historical Society covers more than 100 years of the Bay Area’s queer heritage, as the US’s first dedicated museum to LGBTQ+ history.
友好、美妙且充满历史影响力的卡斯特罗区是旧金山最热闹的街区之一,这是一个热情好客的同性恋社区,街道两旁有独立画廊、高能量的同性恋酒吧和一流的有机餐厅。如果不参观这个进步但热爱派对的社区,就不可能真正了解旧金山的进步精神,那里彩虹旗骄傲地飘扬,自发的街头庆祝活动经常在双峰酒馆等标志性同性恋酒吧外爆发,GLBT 历史协会涵盖了 100 多个多年的湾区酷儿遗产,作为美国第一个专门介绍 LGBTQ+ 历史的博物馆。
4 Haight-Ashbury海特-阿什伯里
In the 1960s, the Haight district, a colourful but dilapidated cluster of Victorian townhouses known as Painted Ladies, was a melting pot of beat poets who’d been unceremoniously priced out of North Beach, members of the LGBTQ+ community spreading over from the Castro District, politically impassioned Berkeley students and other magnificent misfits – including musicians such as Jimi Hendrix, Jefferson Airplane, Janis Joplin and the Grateful Dead. The history of the 1960s counterculture movement is so densely concentrated in these streets that a walking tour by San Francisco City Guides is a useful way to get a handle on this colourful chapter of San Francisco’s history, and get the rock’n’roll gossip on the fetching pink property that once housed Janis Joplin, and the Grateful Dead House at 710 Ashbury. Today, bookstores such as The Booksmith, Magnolia Brewing (formerly the Drugstore Cafe, an original hippie hangout) and Amoeba Music carry on waving the counterculture flag.
在 1960 年代,海特区是一个色彩缤纷但破败不堪的维多利亚式联排别墅群,被称为“彩绘女士”,是一群被毫不客气地定价离开北海滩的垮掉派诗人的大熔炉,LGBTQ+ 社区的成员从卡斯特罗区蔓延开来、政治上充满激情的伯克利学生和其他伟大的不合时宜的人——包括 Jimi Hendrix、Jefferson Airplane、Janis Joplin 和 Grateful Dead 等音乐家。 1960 年代反主流文化运动的历史如此密集地集中在这些街道上,旧金山城市指南的徒步旅行是了解旧金山历史这一多彩篇章并了解摇滚八卦的有用方式曾经是贾尼斯·乔普林 (Janis Joplin) 的迷人粉色房产,以及位于 710 Ashbury 的 Grateful Dead House。如今,The Booksmith、Magnolia Brewing(以前的 Drugstore Cafe,一个原始的嬉皮士聚会场所)和 Amoeba Music 等书店继续挥舞着反主流文化的旗帜。
5 Ferry Building Marketplace渡轮大厦市场
Longtime San Francisco residents joke that the best thing to come out of the 1989 earthquake was the repurposing of the Ferry Building, a grandiose but disused transit hub. The ferries were reintroduced, the 1892 beaux-arts building was restored, and the ground floor was filled with some 50 restaurants, vendors and shops, all with a focus on local and sustainable independent businesses. The twice-weekly farmers’ markets on Wednesdays and Saturdays keep things produce-based amid hot-ticket eateries such as the Vietnamese Slanted Door, but there is always a community feel at the Ferry Building. “We love being here because the Ferry Building is a beautiful long-standing piece of San Francisco history, alive with what this city is all about – fabulous food, small businesses and picturesque views,” says Alex Mart of Stonehouse Olive Oil, an award-winning female-owned business with a focus on sustainability and regenerative farming. “You can grab a world-famous croissant or empanada with an artisan coffee, sit by the water with an epic vista of the Bay Bridge and Treasure Island, with a new book from an independent bookstore. Then you can hop on a ferry, and swing back after a day of sightseeing for a dinner of fresh seafood and to score some locally made olive oil, ceramics or other souvenirs.”
旧金山的长期居民开玩笑说,从1989 年地震中走出来的最好的事情是重新利用渡轮大楼,这是一个宏伟但废弃的交通枢纽。渡轮重新引入,1892 年的美术建筑得到修复,一楼有大约 50 家餐馆、供应商和商店,所有这些都专注于当地和可持续的独立企业。周三和周六每周两次的农贸市场在越南斜门等热门餐馆中以农产品为基础,但渡轮大楼总有一种社区的感觉。 “我们喜欢在这里,因为渡轮大楼是旧金山历史悠久的美丽片段,充满了这座城市的一切——美味的食物、小企业和风景如画的景色,”Stonehouse Olive Oil 奖项的亚历克斯·马特说- 赢得专注于可持续发展和再生农业的女性拥有的企业。 “您可以享用世界著名的羊角面包或肉馅卷饼和手工咖啡,坐在水边欣赏海湾大桥和金银岛的壮丽景色,还可以阅读来自独立书店的新书。然后,您可以乘坐渡轮,在一天的观光后返回,享用新鲜的海鲜晚餐,并获得一些当地制作的橄榄油、陶瓷或其他纪念品。”
来源:If you’re going to San Francisco … be sure to visit these five not-to-be-missed sights | What if ... in California | The Guardian